Growing up in a small town didn't lend much opportunity to appreciate the finer aspects of the fashion world. I wouldn't go so far as to say I'm challenged in the area of putting together a wardrobe, but exotic dresses and runway shows aren't exactly my cup of tea. As you can imagine, I was notably apprehensive about reviewing a documentary chronicling the final two years in the career of legendary fashion designer, Valentino Garavani. Given unprecedented behind-the-scenes access to the incredibly private life of Valentino, director Matt Tymauer (Vanity Fair Special Correspondent) and his crew of cameramen allegedly shot over 250 hours of footage, spanning a crucial turning point in the world of fashion. Much to my surprise, the end result is a fantastic voyage into a world that feels abundantly foreign, yet immensely entertaining.
Valentino struts down the catwalk at his 45th anniversary celebration.
For anyone not familiar with Valentino, he's considered by many to be the last in a long line of Italian couturiers (highly regarded fashion designers). Born in Voghera, Italy in 1932, he studied fashion design in Milan and worked for couturiers Jean Desses and Guy Laroche. In 1960, Valentino opened his first Salon in Rome, as well as releasing his first collection of women's dresses. Though he was gifted in the art of fashion, the business end presented a problem in Valentino's early years, until he met his life-long partner, Giancarlo Giammetti. Together, the two men grew the Valentino fashion label into a multi-million dollar business, attracting the attention of actresses and socialites who loved the creations that encompassed the various collections designed by Valentino. This film picks up in 2005, just prior to a fashion show displaying Valentino's latest collection. We're given a first-hand look at Valentino's creative process in designing dresses, as well as a glimpse at the back-stage chaos that permeates a fashion show. The second half of the film focuses on his 45th anniversary as a fashion designer and the huge celebration that was thrown in his honor. Intermixed throughout the 90-minute runtime, are interviews with various individuals in the fashion industry and an enlightening perspective on Valentino from his long-time partner Giammetti.
What makes Valentino: The Last Emperor such a fascinating film is the relationship between two men who've spent more than a half-century together, joined together in nearly every facet of their lives. I know it sounds contrived, but it almost seems they complete each other and would simply not be the same men without the support of one another. They still bicker and give each other absolute hell from time to time, but their deep-rooted appreciation for each other's strengths shows through in every interaction.
If you've ever been curious about the fashion industry or the delicate balance between art and business, this film will offer plenty of food for thought. The Valentino company has been sold several times over the years and it's clear Giammetti and Valentino become more and more disenchanted with the feeling of restriction that accompanies their lack of control. I won't give away the end of the film, but you can tell there's a shift in Valentino's attitude over the course of the 2 years he's followed. It almost seems those in control of the business side believe Valentino is no longer an important aspect of the company, since his name and/or logo hold more value with the common consumer (most fashion companies apparently make the majority of their profit off of purse and perfume sales rather than high-end dress sales and runway shows).
For those of you who are still apprehensive about a documentary centered on the fashion industry, I can assure you this is far more than eccentric socialites prancing around for 90 minutes. As a character study, this is a revealing look at one of the most successful men in Italy, who never compromised his art, yet became incredibly wealthy by surrounding himself with a tight-knit "family" of talented individuals. We typically expect influential people to possess infinite confidence, but Valentino is likely his own harshest critic, descending into occasional meltdowns and tirades that are all caught on tape (he even lashes out at the film crew on a couple of occasions when he's feeling tremendous pressure). These comical outbursts are typically tempered by his laid-back partner Giammetti (who shows tremendous patience with Valentino), but there are still moments when Valentino comes across as a spoiled child. I mean no disrespect, but artists can be a strange breed at times.
As a side note, I should mention there are several scenes of topless nudity when Valentino's personal model is fitted for various dresses. While it didn't bother me, it seemed odd given the MPAA's conservative treatment of a rating system that typically doesn't allow topless female nudity in PG-13 films.
Presented in 1080p utilizing the AVC codec (at an average bitrate of 18Mbps), Valentino: The Last Emperor offers a marginal visual experience on Blu-ray. Shoddy fine-object detail is the main culprit behind my lack of enthusiasm, which rarely manages to eclipse the quality we'd expect from a high quality up-converted DVD. There's no doubt the recent images were captured with high-definition cameras, but considering the editors culled the included scenes from over 250 hours of footage, I suppose we can't expect every sequence to include Hollywood quality camera-work. Far too often, the camera will go in and out of focus (or remain out of focus for the duration of a scene), lending the picture a hazy quality that occasionally becomes distracting. Aside from questionable clarity, the film looks pretty decent, with a natural color scheme (fitting for the use of hand-held cameras), black levels that exhibit average depth, and contrast differentiation that rarely excels, yet never disappoints. Of note, there's a significant amount of historical footage from Valentino's career over the past forty years, which obviously looks a bit rough next to the recently captured scenes.
In all honesty, this was one of the most disappointing audio tracks I've heard in quite awhile. Presented in DTS-HD MA 5.1, in the native language of English, the audio design will lead you into the false belief that you need hearing aids. As the film began, I thought for sure this was a 2-channel lossy mix, since everything seemed far too muddled for a lossless track. The broken-English dialogue from the Italian stars of the film can be difficult to make out as it is, but it becomes even more frustrating when the volume varies wildly and speaking parts are drowned out by the musical numbers. Thankfully, the filmmakers do us a favor by including English subtitles through a substantial portion of the film, but that still doesn't make up for the deficiencies in the dialogue. Matters don't improve much with the use of surrounds, which seem to be all but missing from the reportedly 5.1 track. In all honesty, the only positive worth mentioning from an audio standpoint, is the inclusion of some effective Italian music that sounds exactly like something you'd hear in the Godfather film series.
In the end, this is a fairly miserable audio experience that makes it difficult to appreciate the full entertainment value of the film. I can't imagine this sounds any better than the DVD version, which is sad considering Phase 4 went to the added effort of including a lossless track.
The Perfect Life (1080i, DTS 2.0, 30:04 min): Michael Kelly has been working with Valentino since January of 1998 as the manager of his six estates. He's the primary star of this supplement, as the camera crew follow him threw one stressful situation after another. Some of the footage included here can also be seen in the film, but this is a fascinating behind-the-scenes glimpse at Valentino's luxurious lifestyle.
The Last Collection (1080i, DTS 2.0, 8:29 min): In 2008 (five months after announcing his retirement), Valentino released his final haute couture collection. This supplement takes us behind the scenes at the fashion show, chronicling the final presentation by fashion's elite leading man.
A Red Dress (1080i, DTS 2.0, 8:21 min): In 2006, Valentino drew up a sketch for a red dress and presented it to his lead seamstress. This extra follows the process of creating one of his creations by hand and gives the viewer an in-depth glimpse at the effort involved in perfecting a dress to match what Valentino imagined in his sketch.
Lastly, we have a high-definition trailer for the film (with an audio track that's substantially louder than the film itself).
I didn't expect I'd be saying this when I initially sat down to watch this film, but I'd recommend Valentino: The Last Emperor to anyone that enjoys documentaries or appreciates fashion on any level. I've never had an interest in the eccentric ways of the fashion world, but I was thoroughly entertained from start to finish. I know most men will likely avoid this release like the plague, but I can assure you the film will appeal to both genders on an equal level. From a technical standpoint, this is a disappointing high-definition release that offers little reason to add this Blu-ray to your collection. I hate being put in a position where I can't offer a wholehearted recommendation on the release of an above average film, but the technical deficiencies only warrant a rental suggestion for the majority of potential viewers.
Valentino: The Last Emperor Blu-ray, News and Updates
Phase 4 Films has added two titles to its Blu-ray slate. The indie movie 'The Mysteries of Pittsburgh' is announced for August 4, whereas the documentary 'Valentino: The Last Emperor' is scheduled for September 15. There is no information on audio or video specifications, ...
